Hyderabad turns 425: From city of pearls to an IT hub
Hyderabad is situated on a hilly terrain around artificial lakes, including the Hussainsagar.
It hasn’t lost its cosmopolitan ‘Ganga Jamuna tehzeeb’, the taste of the famed biryani, spicy slang or tasty Gandipet ka paani (sweet water of Osmansagar), though ‘adaab’ has paved the way for ‘Hi!’.
While the Telangana state government doesn’t find it fit to celebrate the occasion for reasons unknown, the Deccan Heritage Trust is organising an exhibition of vintage photographs of Charminar and Mahaboob Ali Pasha, the sixth Nizam, at Urdu Hall in Himayatnagar on Sunday.
Paigah family scion M.A. Faiz Khan summed up Hyderabad on its 425th birth anniversary: “From a very quiet, peaceful city with culture and tradition, Hyderabad has grown into a vibrant metro. In the process it lost a bit of tradition and culture. Heritage has taken a beating. Yet it is the most successful city where people love to live.”
Quli Qutb Shah (1580-1612) laid the foundation for Hyderabad with Charminar (1591/1592) followed by the Badshahi Ashoorkhana in 1593-1594 to house the Alam or replicas of the banner carried by Imam Hussain at Karbala and Darulshifa, Asia’s first Unani and Ayurveda hospital in 1595; all in the walled city of Hyderabad.
There was no looking back. The city grew and grew over the last four centuries especially during the rule of Mir Osman Ali Khan, Nizam VII and thereafter.
“It’s a great city to live. It has unparalleled culture that bonds people irrespective of caste, creed and colour,” says Muhammad Safiullah, honorary managing trustee of the Deccan Heritage Trust.
Hyderabad is situated on a hilly terrain around artificial lakes, including the Hussainsagar.
In 1724, Mughal viceroy Asif Jah I declared sovereignty and set up his own Nizam dynasty. Nizam’s dominion became a princely state during British Raj, and remained so for 150 years, with the city serving as its capital. Relics of Qutb Shahi and Nizam rule are visible even today.
Hyderabad city was the capital of Hyderabad State. It was the capital of Andhra Pradesh after joining Indian Union in 1948 and is now joint capital for 10 years for Telangana and AP.
City grew in 6 phases
How did Hyderabad and Secunderabad grow into a burgeoning metropolis? Historian D.M. Wagh, writing on “Towns and Cities of the Deccan” and quoting Shah Manzur Alam’s “Hyderabad and Secunderabad (twin cities) 1965,” says the development of Hyderabad-Secunderabad took place in six historical stages.
First, the twin city stage (1591-1687) when the city was planned in a grid pattern and became a commercial metropolis of the Golconda kingdom. Second, the transitional stage (1591-1687) when the seat of authority was shifted to Hyderabad from Aurangabad. The city wall was completed in 1740.
Fourth, the subsidiary alliance with British was made in 1798. British cantonment was in the north (Secunderabad). Golconda, the twin city of Hyderabad, was replaced with Secunderabad.
Fifth, the railway stage (1875-1908) which helped cement twin cities further, new industries cropped up and became nuclei of new settlement. Sixth, the modern stage (from 1908), following the catastrophic floods which led to internal reorganisation.
In a lifespan of 357 years from 1591 to 1948, Hyderabad has undergone extensive metamorphosis owing to changing historical, political, economic forces. Its population varied from 150,000 (a rough estimate by the British Resident) in 1839 to 860,000 in 1951.
Since 1901, the population of the city increased more through influx of immigrants than by any other cause — 200,000 immigrants during 1901 to 1931 and from 64,000 in 1941 to 200,000 in 1951.
Nizam VII Mir Osman Ali Khan, Asaf Jah VII GCSI GBE, was the last Nizam of the Princely State of Hyderabad, the largest princely state in British India. He ascended the throne on 29 August 1911, at the age of 25 and ruled the Kingdom of Hyderabad between 1911 and 1948.
Quli Qutb Shah Urban Development Authority (QQSUDA) along with Deccan Terrain Heritage, a company with expertise in heritage conservation completed the project at a cost of Rs. 29.50 lakh in four months time.
HYDERABAD WAS ONCE WALLED CITY WITH HOST OF DARWAZAJAS (DOORS) AND KIDIS (WINDOWS), WHICH HAVE CRUMBLED OVER THE YEARS AND PAVED WAY FOR NEW DWELLINGS
Sultan Abul Hasan Tana Shah, the last Qutb Shahi ruler, started construction of wall around the city of Hyderabad.
As part of the construction, the stretch of wall was built from Puranapul to the Delhi Darwaza. Later, Golconda was conquered by Aurangazeb, putting the reign of Qutb Shahi to an end.
With the conquest of Golconda by Aurangzeb, the reign of the Qutb Shahi dynasty came to an end.
Later, in the early 18th century, when Farrukhsiyar was the Mughal emperor, his subedar Mubrez Khan started the construction of a wall around the city of Hyderabad, pulling down the old wall and constructing the new wall.
A part of the wall was the already existing stretch built from Puranapul to the Delhi Darwaza during the reign of Sultan Abul Hasan Tana Shah, the last Qutb Shahi ruler.
Originally, the construction of the wall began during the Qutb Shahi period but it was completed during the reign of Asaf Jah . The wall had 13 gates and windows and the last to be built was the Afzal Darwaza. These gates used to be locked after dusk and opened at dawn. The keys were kept in the custody of a senior administrator.
LIST OF DARWAZAS
In the beginning, this wall had 13 gates (called Darwaza in Urdu).
They were:
1. Delhi darwaza
2.Puranapul-ka-darwaza, (also known as Bahadurpura-ka-darwaza)
3. Aliabad- ka-darwaza
4. Dabeerpura-ka-darwaza
5. Laldarwaza
6. Fathe darwaza
7. Yakutpura-ka- darwaza
8. Gowlipura-ka-darwaza
9. Doodhbowli-ka-darwaza
10. Chadarghat-ka-darwaza
11. Champa darwaza
12.Mir Jumlakatta-ka-darwaza
13. Nayapul-ka-darwaza or Afzal darwaza
14. Muslim Jung darwaza
There were 13 khidkis (windows):
1. 1. Rangalishah- ki- khidki
2. 2. Bood Ali Shah ki khidki
3. 3. Kahar-ki-khidki
4. Doodhbowli-ki -khidki
5. Borah- ki- khidki
6. Mirjumla-ki-khidki
7. Dhobi ki khidki
8. Matha-ki-khidki,
9. Kalala-ki-khidki
10. Charmahal-ki- khidki
11. Champa darwaza- ki- khidki
12. Hassan Ali- ki- khidki
13. Darul-shifa ki khidki.
After the end of Nizam rule, under Indian Union, before merging with Andhra in the mid-nineteen century the city improvement board saw it as a hindrance for the movement of people and asked them to get involved in dismantling it and for this purpose advertisements were placed in newspapers, recall some old-timers then gates were demolished in 1954.
Now only Dabeerpura and Puranapul darwaza are left
for one to be transported back into history.
Present
status of Hyderabad city wall
It once used to protect people but now cries for
protection itself. The remains of a granite built fortification wall
constructed around the city some centuries ago to ward of attacks from enemies
is on the verge of being erased.
In fact only a small portion of the six-mile
circumference wall survives now. One can locate its remains at City College, Aliabad
Darwaza, Sultan Shahi, Fateh Darwaza. The biggest stretch exists between Lal darwaza
and Aliabad darwaza, but in a poor state. It can crumble anytime.
Not much has been done to protect the fortification wall despite the fact that it occupies an important place in the history of the city. In fact the older part of the city is still known as “walled city”, generally meaning a fortified area.
Courtesy: Paigahs of Deccan
This is 1915 magnificent "Hillfort Palace" belonged to and constructed by SIR NIZAMAT JUNG .
Brief History - Nawab Sir Nizamat Jung was son of Nawab Rafath Yar Jung , Subedar( Commisioner) of Warangal.
In the year 1891 Sir Nizamat Jung graduated in law from Trinity College , Cambridge , England , he was the first person from Hyderabad to achieve this law degree, later he became a Barrister.
He joined civil service during time of Nizam's rule and rose to positions of Home Secretary, judge , held important postions , finally served as a Chief Justice Of Hyderabad State High Court , he was one of the greatest and able person Hyderabad State has seen.
He was an outstanding poet of par excellence, which was recognised by British Empire for his contribution to English literature , service and loyalty .
Recieved the knighthood from British Empire K.C.I.E. ( Knight Commander of Indian Empire) in 1929, thus "sir" was added to his name.
His poetries and Sonnets are world famous .
He was the first President Of Poetry Society.
Seventh Asaf Jah HEH Mir Osman Ali Khan Bahadur had once requested him to translate his written gazals in english , which he did , such was his ability , even recognised by the Nizam.
After touring this 1915 palace twice in short duration in 2019 , I feel the owner's strong remarkable obsession for English castles and churches probably attained during his stay in England and was realised to select the location of hilly terrain, on the way to erswhile "Noubat Pahad" near Bashirbagh.
COMPARATIVE STUDY ALBUM OF PHOTOS FROM PRIME TIME TO PRESENT TIME .
Architectural Description- Its a very fine example of completely dedicated " Gothic Architecture" style , has features of a European "Castle" and "Churches" in combination.
The large entrance gates have two security cabins very richly decorated.
The imposing palace main entrance has a wide "Tudor Arch" (four centred arch ) , with two buttresses on either sides forming towers , upper portion of entrance arch have inset of
" pointed Trefoil arches" ( three curves) forming ribs within the arch.
On both sides of entrance are richly decorated bay windows , featured on facade with similar style ribbed arches and highly decorated floor projection.
The top roofline has square " Battlement " design all around the roof of palace.
The entrance leads to a a foyer which connects the upper floor with twin "L "shaped stylish staircases and then connects to square large " court yard " which is the integral part of palace and all around rooms are connected by a beautiful parallel covered passage with a series of beautiful "tudor ribbed arches" .
The rear part of palace is at a different level and has very large banquet hall.
Each and every corner is featured with rich gothic ornamentation.
The typical features of "gothic architecture" the buttresses , quatrafoil mouldings, trefoil arches and tudor arches with ribs etc. are very well incorporated.
The design and concept of this palace is so very well conceived taking use of steep contours ( hilly) , it looks like a miniature castle , the lower levels were probably used by service staff.
Picture - 1 Photograph of Sir Nizamat Jung.
Picture - 3 to 11 - Vintage photograph of palace and its interiors- pictures credit , Mr.Arvind Acharya.
Video in album - Is of central courtyard of palace.
Fabulous palace lies in a state of utter neglect.
kindly go through the album to understand my write up all photographs are captioned, kindly go through them. the present snaps are shot by me.
"CRYING WALLS OF THE FABOULOUS PALACE ARE BEGGING FOR NEW LIFE "
On this the 18th of April 2020 on the occasion of WORLD HERITAGE DAY,
I DEDICATE THIS ARTICLE TO SIR NIZAMAT JUNG AS A TRIBUTE TO HIM.
©️ASIF ALI KHAN,
ARCHITECT , HYDERABAD
Hill Fort Palace in dilaphidated condition now
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Kacheguda Railway Station
NIZAMS STATE FILM INDUSTRYIn the year 1927 *Royal Talkies* was established by Dinyar Dinshah in the residency area, which was later on purchased by Vennayya and Maisaiah in 1937. In 1930.. *Yakuth Mahal* was constructed in Yakuthpur area.The two projectors made in 1927 in Chicago were present in the theatre. The presence of these projectors made this theatre to exhibit the movies for more than eighty years continuously. Not only separate seats for ladies but there was also a curtain between the ladies and Gents section. This theatre gave importance to the old melodies. In or around 1930 *Motimahal theatre* was built, in the Residency area. June 14th of 1936 was one of the saddest days in the history of the Nizam state. A fire accident occurred in Mothimahal Theatre of Sultan Bazaar. Fourteen people were dead and several people were injured in this incident. The film “College Girl” was screening in the theatre at the time of accident which occurred between 9.30 pm – 10.00 pm during the end of the evening show at lady‟s balcony near projector room. The fire started near projector and spread into lady‟s balcony. Due to the heavy smoke, people started running towards the exit and there was a stampede. In 1932... *Krishna Talkies* was built at Gulbarga house, Gulzar house. Krishna Talkies used to exhibit the films till recently. Later it was demolished and now the construction work is going on to built a big complex in its place. In the year 1934 *Zamarrud*” was built in 1934 by Nawab Gulam Hussain Khan and named after his grand mother Zamrrud Begum. At that relevant time, it was the largest cinema theatre in India, measuring 200 by 70 feets, accommodates 2000 persons. This theatre was being started with Devaki Bose‟s “Sita” (Durga Kote and Prithvi Raj Kapoor) movie, but it was started with “Bilwamangal”. The “Bilwamangal” movie was the first Indian Movie which was being processed in Britain. In the same year *Manohar Talkies* was built at Secunderabad. 1935-40 *Argus* was constructed at Lal Darwaza, two more theatres were constructed under the same name at Narayaguda and Aghapura, in these two theatres Telugu movies were being run. In or about 1939...Abids shop was converted into a theatre *Select Cinema* it belongs to Patel and Bhagat....later on after its reconstruction named as *Palace Theatre* The oldest theatres in Secunderabad Minerva,(The only theatre on first floor with three balconies) Plaza, Amar talkies (It was the small theatre which was half round iron shed) Dream land theatre (which is now marriage function hall) Rameshwar talkies in Malkajgiri (used to call munta talkies as water was served pots) Select theatre in Bollaram village (only theatre in military area) Paradise theatre (people from districts now Andra Pradesh also used to come to see theatre ) Sangeet the only very posh and highfy theatre for only English movies and only theatre with Generator Vijayalaxmi theatre at Ameerpet (45 paise ticket and highest 1.20 paise a separate block for ladies nd used to be covered by curtain in intervals) LIFESTYLE, TRAVEL Rare show of old photographs at Hyderabad State Museum DECCAN CHRONICLE | Published Aug 19, 2016, 2:39 am IST UpdatedAug 19, 2016, 7:06 am IST A picture developed from a glass plate negative by the TS department of archaeology and museums shows the High Court building as it was decades ago. Hyderabad: Rare photographs developed from century-old glass plate negatives of the Nizam’s dominion have been brought back to life by the state archaeology and museums department. Around 30 photographs of major monuments along with the glass plate negatives will be on display at the State Museum, Public Gardens for two weeks from Friday. In all, the department has digitised and preserved 4,800 glass plate negatives under a project titled “Heritage on Glass”. Photographic glass plate negatives used between 1850s and 1920s preceded film, which has now given way to digital photography. The photographs include those of Charminar, Ajanta and Ellora Caves, Bhongir Fort, Mecca Masjid, Badshah Ashoor-khana, British Residency (Women’s College, Koti), among others. “The exhibition of photos taken with glass plate negatives will be for two weeks from Friday. We are also organising competitions,” said Ms N.R. Visalatchy, director of archaeology and museums.  opened by Chief Minister and Bharat Rasthra Samithi president K Chandrasekhar Rao April 30, 2023. 265 feet tall, 635 rooms, 10.5 lakh square feet and 28 acres. Laid foundation stone on on June 27, 2019 and work began in January 2021 due to Covid-19 pandemic. The domes of the new Secretariat have been built in the styles of the Neelakanteshwara Swamy Temple of the Kakatiya Period in Nizamabad, designs of the palaces of the royals of Wanaparthy Samasthanam in Telangana and teh pattern of the Hanuman Temple in Sarangapur, Gujarat.        Telangana Martyrs Memorial--Telangana Amara Jyothi or Amaraveerula Stupan, Tank Bund Hyderabad built in memory of 369 persons killed including students in 1969 separate Telangana agitation. Opened 22-6-2024 Designed by: M Venkata Ramana Reddy   |
Courtesy: Paigahs of Deccan
H. H. Prince Walashan Azam Jah Bahadur, with his eldest son Prince Walashan Mukkaram Jah Bahadur
The history of Hyderabad as a city began in 1518 when Sultan Quli Qut-ul-Mulk declared independence from the Bahmani Sultanate and established the fortress city of Golconda, calling himself the Sultan Quli Qutub Shah.
In 1589, the city of Hyderabad was finally built on the Musi River by the fifth sultan of the dynasty, a mere five miles east of Golconda.
Buggy at Taj Falaknuma Palace
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